Humidity and Pianos
When you consider that a piano is largely made of wood, it's not
surprising that the subject of humidity plays such an important role
in piano technology. To jump to a section click on the links below:
Relative
Humidity
Where
to Place the Piano
Temperature
Humidifiers
and Climate Control Systems
Relative Humidity
Relative humidity is a measurement, expressed as a percentage, of the amount
of water vapor in the air compared to the maximum amount the air
could possibly hold at a given temperature. The relative humidity of
the outdoor air depends on the nature of the air mass—that is,
how moist or dry it is—and on the temperature, because the ability
of the air to hold moisture increases with increasing temperature.
So if we take a "parcel" of air with a certain amount of moisture in
it and we heat it up, the relative humidity will decrease, because
the amount of moisture in the air will have decreased in
comparison to the amount the air is now capable of holding.
Alternatively, if we cool that air, again without adding or
subtracting the moisture, the relative humidity will increase,
because the capacity of the air to hold moisture will have
diminished.
The relative humidity of the outdoor air can be high or low from
day to day, regardless of the season. The reason such a fuss is made
about low winter humidity is that in climates that have cold
winters, the indoor relative humidity is artificially lowered
by heating the air with a furnace system without supplying any
additional moisture. If, for example, the outdoor temperature is 32
degrees Fahrenheit and the outdoor humidity is 100 percent (an
extreme example), by the time the air is heated to 68 degrees
indoors, the indoor relative humidity will have dropped
(theoretically) to only 28 percent (the actual amount may be a
little higher due to human respiration, plants, and other factors).
A continuous exchange of moisture goes on between the air and the
wooden piano parts and other porous objects around the house, as the
moisture level attempts to reach a state of equilibrium. Since the
air is usually a much greater reservoir of moisture than the
objects, it tends to dictate the terms of this interchange. When the
relative humidity is low, the air sucks up moisture from the piano,
causing the pitch to fall, tuning pins to loosen, and parts to
rattle (not to mention causing plants to wither, furniture joints to
loosen, skin to crack, and throats to get sore).
Piano manufacturers suggest that the ideal humidity level for
pianos is about 40 to 50 percent, whereas studies show that for
people 50 to 60 percent is best. Actually, as far as pianos are
concerned, the particular humidity level is not nearly as important
as the change in humidity through the seasons. In most cases, a
piano can be adjusted to exist quite well at any reasonable level of
humidity as long as it doesn't change much. But when, as happens in
most of North America, the indoor humidity goes from very high to
very low and back again, year after year, the alternate the
alternate expansion and contraction has the net effect of shrinking,
cracking, and warping even wood that has been well-seasoned prior to
manufacturing. One of the most important parts of good piano
maintenance is keeping the humidity as constant as possible.
Where to Place the Piano
There are several ways you can protect your piano from extremes
and fluctuations of humidity. The most important of these is putting
the piano in the right place. NEVER put a piano near or
against a working radiator, next to or over a hot-air vent, or under
a ceiling vent. If you can't observe this one simple rule, there's
no point to even buying a piano. You'll be throwing your money away.
A concert pianist who is a customer of mine insisted, over my
objections, on situating her $15,000 grand over a large heating vent
in her living room. "It doesn't look good any place else," she said.
Her piano is now almost un-tunable. Priorities, please!
Some tuners advise their customers not to place a piano near a
window or a door because of possible drafts, or against an outside
wall that may get cold. This is undoubtedly good advice, but
following it may severely restrict your ability to have a piano at
all. Use your judgment. My experience is that these factors are
often not too significant unless the conditions are extreme. If in
doubt, and an inside wall is not available, move your piano six
inches away from any outside wall to provide an insulating air
space, or try putting a sheet of styrofoam insulation behind the
piano. Remember, too, not to place your piano in an usually damp
place, such as a damp basement.
Direct sunlight on a piano should be diffused with curtains or
venetian blinds. Besides damaging the finish of a piano, sunlight
can wreak havoc on the tuning. I remember the time I was called by a
grand piano owner who claimed his piano seemed to go out of tune at
certain times of the day and back in tune at other times. "Sure", I
thought skeptically, but agreed to check it out. Not finding
anything obviously wrong, I proceeded to tune the piano. Halfway
through the tuning, I discovered, to my dismay that the piano was
already going out of tune. Then I noticed that while I had been
tuning, the sun had shifted its position in the sky and was not
shining directly on the soundboard. I quickly got up and closed the
blinds. After five minutes, to my relief and amazement, the piano
was back in almost perfect tune.
Temperature
Another way you can keep the humidity up in the wintertime is to
keep the temperature at moderate level. Temperature alone does not
affect a piano very much unless extreme, but it decidedly affects
relative humidity. A temperature difference of just 5 degrees can
make the difference between a house that is hazardously dry and one
that is moderate and comfortable. Some of the best-preserved pianos
I have seen have been in rooms that were poorly or directly heated.
Some of the worst have been in houses heated over 70 degrees. Some
piano manufacturers state that the ideal temperature for a piano is
72 to 75 degrees. In my opinion, this is ridiculous. Not only would
this be a waste of expensive energy resources, but it can be nearly
impossible to keep an adequate humidity level when a house is heated
to such temperatures in the wintertime. Studies have shown that the
best temperature for physically active people is around 64 degrees,
although there is, of course, a certain amount of variation from one
person to another (for instance, people who are elderly or ill
usually need a much higher temperature to avoid hypothermia).
Obviously you need to strike a balance between your health and
comfort needs and the requirements of your piano. Fortunately, this
balance is usually not hard to find if you are willing to be
flexible and wear a sweater indoors from time to time.
Humidifiers and Climate Control Systems
Many people are starting to recognize the importance of an
adequate humidity level to health and possessions, including their
piano. Households in increasing numbers are artificially raising the
humidity during the dry months by using humidifiers. These come in
three kinds: a central humidifier directly connected to your forced
hot-air heating system (if you have this kind of system), a portable
unit that can humidify one or several rooms, and a miniature climate
control system installed right in your piano.
If you do heat with forced hot air, connecting a central
humidifier is by far the best route. A heating and cooling
contractor can install one for $400 - $500. This may cost more than
the smaller portable models, but it will take care of the entire
house with no additional noise or clutter of extra appliances.
Central humidifiers are usually designed to refill themselves with
water automatically, but you must clean them often to remove mineral
deposits, especially in hard water areas, and to prevent the growth
of bacteria.
If you heat by other means than forced hot air, you should
consider buying a portable humidifier, usually priced from $100 -
$200. These, however, require a lot of maintenance. Like the central
kind, they must be cleaned often (weekly, or at least monthly) to
avoid the growth and spread of air-borne disease. They must also be
filled with water quite often (on the average, daily), the
frequency depending on the capacity and output of the humidifier,
the temperature of the house, and how well the house is insulated.
If you go away for a few days and the humidifier runs out of water,
the house could get dry and the piano could go out of tune. Also,
these appliances tend to make a lot of noise, something to which a
musician is likely to be sensitive. Last, when the temperature is
very low outside, indoor humidity must also be kept low—often
lower than is acceptable for your piano—to prevent water vapor from
condensing on windows and other cold surfaces. In fact, too much
humidification can result in moisture seeping into the wall, and,
over time, causing structural damage to the house.
If you would like to avoid this risk, would be bothered by the motor noise of a
console humidifier, want to avoid the nuisance of frequent cleaning
and filling, go away for long periods of time, live in an area that
is too damp all the time, or just want to give extra special
attention to protecting your piano, the best route is to have a
climate control system installed right inside your piano (see figure
on the right). These systems can be ordered and installed by your
piano technician. The system consists of a humidifier (a tank of
water with a heating element and fabric wicks), a dehumidifier (a
long heating element that raises the temperature and thus lowers the
relative humidity), a humidistat (sense the humidity level and turns
on and off the humidifier and dehumidifier as needed), a low-water
warning light mounted under the keybed, and an easy-fill tube so you
can refill the humidifier without having to open up the piano. In a
vertical piano, the system is installed right inside the lower
panel, near the pedals. Optionally available are components that
provide protection at the back of the piano, too. In a grand, it
fits under the soundboard. The cost for the system and installation
is about $300 to $400 in a vertical and $400 to $500 in a grand.
The advantages of this system are that it makes no noise at all,
requires filling (extremely easy) only every one to four weeks,
depending on conditions, and needs cleaning and changing of the
humidifier wicks only once a year, which your technician can do.
Since the system covers only a small area, it can control the
humidity in that area very closely. The drawback is that it can't
reach the entire piano, only the inside of the vertical (unless
optional components are installed) and the underneath of the grand.
In both cases, it will help stabilitze the tuning, and in the
vertical it will protect the action as well, but in a very dry room,
it may not provide the kind of total protection that the room
humidifier can. I highly recommend these systems for both vertical
and grand pianos, but sometimes suggest that they be supplemented by
room humidifier, especially for grands, if the piano owner doesn't
mind the inconvenience.
To purchase a humidifier or simply get more information please call us
at 1-800-241-0001 or use our contact form.
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Reprinted with permission from Larry Fine's
The Piano Book. |